We are now in Hampi, which is in the state of Karnataka. The nearest big town is Hospet, a busy place with ox carts, pigs wallowing about in the dust and a lot of rickshaw traffic. Hampi itself is quieter, and consists of one main bazaar, a few little side roads and is surrounded by the ruins of Vijayanagar. Founded in the early 14th Century, Vijayanagar flourished for 200 years but was finally sacked by Muslim invaders and abandoned by the remaining inhabitants.
The remains lie in a magical, boulder strewn landscape, that is unlike anything we have seen before. It's not difficult to imagine that you are looking at the ruins of a far older civilisation. Think of the world that is described by H.G. Wells in The Time Machine, in which the Eloi live, and you'll have some idea.
The remains lie in a magical, boulder strewn landscape, that is unlike anything we have seen before. It's not difficult to imagine that you are looking at the ruins of a far older civilisation. Think of the world that is described by H.G. Wells in The Time Machine, in which the Eloi live, and you'll have some idea.
A good way to get around is by pushbike, which costs R.20 per person (30p) per day! And so, after waking early and wading the small river between our guesthouse and Hampi, we took to the road. In the morning we saw Laxmi the elephant from the temple, who will bless you for a rupee, but her day had just begun and she was bathing in the river. We were amazed to see her walk up the narrow steps of the ghats, very close by us, surrounded by excited children.
As the heat worked its way into the day (one rickshaw driver said to us "you must come for a tour today madam, each day gets hotter and hotter" and it seems he's right) we climbed up the rocks on uneven steps, to a small Hanuman shrine. Here we were blessed and then shouted at by an old woman, who guarded the temple fiercely, which after all represented her income. We payed for the blessing, but then had no money to pay for the photos she encouraged us to take! Some passing Indian boys argued with her, and it all ended in laughter.
We've only seen a tiny portion of the ruins which were beautifully carved with everything from swans, to yogic postures and some cheeky monkeys.The temptation is to stay here far longer than intended, since there is so much to explore, when even just sitting watching the landscape could occupy you for years.It's very dreamlike here and if we were suddenly to wake up with the sound of the sea in our ears, in Goa, we would not be suprised.
As the heat worked its way into the day (one rickshaw driver said to us "you must come for a tour today madam, each day gets hotter and hotter" and it seems he's right) we climbed up the rocks on uneven steps, to a small Hanuman shrine. Here we were blessed and then shouted at by an old woman, who guarded the temple fiercely, which after all represented her income. We payed for the blessing, but then had no money to pay for the photos she encouraged us to take! Some passing Indian boys argued with her, and it all ended in laughter.
We've only seen a tiny portion of the ruins which were beautifully carved with everything from swans, to yogic postures and some cheeky monkeys.The temptation is to stay here far longer than intended, since there is so much to explore, when even just sitting watching the landscape could occupy you for years.It's very dreamlike here and if we were suddenly to wake up with the sound of the sea in our ears, in Goa, we would not be suprised.
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